5 Tips to Prepare Your Home for Sale

Working to get your home ship-shape for showings will increase its value and shorten your sales time.

Many buyers today want move-in-ready homes and will quickly eliminate an otherwise great home by focusing on a few visible flaws. Unless your home shines, you may endure showing after showing and open house after open house-and end up with a lower sales price. Before the first prospect walks through your door, consider some smart options for casting your home in its best light.

1. HAVE A HOME INSPECTION
Be proactive by arranging for a pre-sale home inspection. For $250 to $400, an inspector will warn you about troubles that could make potential buyers balk. Make repairs before putting your home on the market. In some states, you may have to disclose what the inspection turns up.

2. GET REPLACEMENT ESTIMATES
If your home inspection uncovers necessary repairs you can't fund, get estimates for the work. The figures will help buyers determine if they can afford the home and the repairs. Also hunt down warranties, guarantees, and user manuals for your furnace, washer and dryer, dishwasher, and any other items you expect to remain with the house.

3. MAKE MINOR REPAIRS
Not every repair costs a bundle. Fix as many small problems-sticky doors, torn screens, cracked caulking, dripping faucets-as you can. These may seem trivial, but they'll give buyers the impression your house isn't well maintained.

4. CLEAR THE CLUTTER
Clear your kitchen counters of just about everything. Clean your closets by packing up little-used items like out-of-season clothes and old toys. Install closet organizers to maximize space. Put at least one-third of your furniture in storage, especially large pieces, such as entertainment centers and big televisions. Pack up family photos, knickknacks, and wall hangings to depersonalize your home. Store the items you've packed offsite or in boxes neatly arranged in your garage or basement.

5. DO A THOROUGH CLEANING
A clean house makes a strong first impression that your home has been well cared for. If you can afford it, consider hiring a cleaning service.

If not, wash windows and leave them open to air out your rooms. Clean carpeting and drapes to eliminate cooking odors, smoke, and pet smells. Wash light fixtures and baseboards, mop and wax floors, and give your stove and refrigerator a thorough once-over.

Pay attention to details, too. Wash fingerprints from light switch plates, clean inside the cabinets, and polish doorknobs. Don't forget to clean your garage, too.

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G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who has found happiness in a Chicago brownstone with the best curb appeal on the block. A frequent contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR® Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: G. M. Filisko

Published: February 10, 2010

Reprinted from HouseLogic (houselogic.com) with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

7 Steps for Removing Mold

Mold is a common home intruder that can quickly turn a desirable house into a risky purchase for potential buyers. So, what can home sellers do about it?

What Is Mold?

Mold is a type of fungus made up of tiny microscopic organisms that can grow practically anywhere, such as on ceiling tiles, wallpaper, wood, paints, carpet, and insulation. It multiplies via spores and shows itself in a variety of colors, from greens to browns to pinks, grays, blacks, and yellows. The most common mold growth area in the house is the bathroom, since mold grows on moist materials.

If you spot mold in one of your home, you'll first want to size up the problem, and then create a plan for safe and complete removal.

If the mold is found in a small area, less than 10 square feet, removal can be a do-it-yourself project. Here's how:

1. Wear a face mask, goggles, and rubber gloves. Don't touch mold with bare skin.

2. Seal off the area to prevent the tiny spores from spreading to other parts of the house during the removal process. Open the windows and cover heat registers and ventilation ducts.

3. Wash the affected hard surface areas with a mild detergent solution, such as laundry detergent and warm water. As an added step, wipe the area with a solution of a quarter-cup bleach and one quart of water. (Warning: Do not mix ammonia and bleach; the fumes can be toxic.)

4. Dry the surface completely. Use fans and dehumidifiers or natural ventilation.

5. Apply a borate-based detergent solution. Don't rinse. This will help prevent the mold from growing again. (Look for "borate" listed on the ingredient labels of laundry or dishwasher detergent.)

6. Don't take shortcuts. Never paint or caulk over moldy surfaces. The paint will peel and the mold will resurface.

7. Call a professional. Just when you think you finally won the battle against mold, you might see dormant spores reappear or even spread to clean areas of the house, particularly if proper removal procedures weren't taken. You may need to call a mold remediation company to resolve the problem.

Sources: The Truth About Mold (Dearborn, 2008) by Susan C. Cooper and Mike Buettner; EPA; Washington State Department of Health

Published: April 2009 REALTOR magazine

Reprinted from REALTOR® magazine with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®. Copyright 2008. All rights reserved.

Roofing: Repair or Replace?

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Jeanne Huber

Published: September 16, 2009

Deciding whether to repair or replace roofing is largely an exercise in timing--you don't want to reroof too soon and waste money, but you don't want to wait too long either.

Eventually, all roofs wear out and need to be replaced. You don't want to do it too soon, because you'll waste money. But you also don't want to wait too long, because then you'll end up with leaks and expensive water damage. To get the timing right, you need to know how to assess the overall condition of your roof and identify early signs of roof failure.

The national average for a new asphalt shingle roof is $19,731, according to Remodeling's 2009-10 Cost vs. Value Report, of which you'll recoup $13,133 at resale (66.6%). For high-end materials, such as standing-seam metal, the cost jumps to as much as $37,000.

If most of your roof is still in good shape, a spot repair makes sense. But if there are signs the roof is wearing out, or if it is more than 20 years old, replacing it may be the smarter choice.

BE ALERT TO EARLY SIGNS OF A ROOF LEAK

If you check the condition of your roof at least once a year, you should be able to plan in advance for necessary repairs. Early signs of trouble include dark areas on ceilings, peeling paint on the underside of roof overhangs, damp spots alongside fireplaces, and water stains on pipes venting the water heater or furnace.

From the outside, you can assess your roof's health by viewing it through binoculars. Warning signs include cracked caulk or rust spots on flashing; shingles that are buckling, curling, or blistering; and worn areas around chimneys, pipes, and skylights. If you find piles of grit from asphalt roof tiles in the gutters, that's a bad sign, since the granules shield the roof from the sun's damaging ultraviolet rays. Black algae stains are just cosmetic, but masses of moss and lichen could signal roofing that's decayed underneath.

If you're inspecting on your own and find worrisome signs, especially if the roof is old or there has been a storm with heavy wind or hail, get a professional assessment. Some roofing companies do this free; specialized roof inspectors, like those who work through the National Roof Certification and Inspection Association, charge about $175.

WHEN REPAIRS MAKE SENSE

You can usually repair a leak in a roof that is otherwise sound. The cost might range from $10 if you just need to squirt some roofing mastic into a gap alongside chimney flashing to $1,000 to fix a leak in a roof valley. If something sudden and unforeseen, such as a wind storm, causes a leak to appear, your homeowner's insurance will probably cover the repairs. But you're still responsible for limiting the damage, so put out buckets and try to get a local roofer to spread a tarp while you arrange for repairs. Insurance may not cover problems that stem from a worn-out roof or lack of maintenance.

THE COST OF RE-ROOFING

Stripping off old roofing and starting over typically costs about $3 a square foot for basic composition shingles. You may be able to leave an existing single layer and add a second layer on top of it for about $2 a square foot. If you plan to stay in the house for only a few years, this might seem like a smart way to save. But unless you're so pressed for cash that your only other option is to risk leaks, it's false economy. The second layer won't last as long-only about 15 years rather than the standard 20-and you won't get new flashing or underlayment or the opportunity to upgrade to features that make a roof stronger. Plus, when you go to sell, your re-covered roof will look a little lumpy, and potential buyers may interpret the two layers as a sign that other home improvements were also done on the cheap.

MAKE SURE TO FACTOR IN HIDDEN COSTS

When you evaluate bids, don't just look at the total. A bare-bones estimate might include a single layer of 15-pound building paper under the roofing, while a better but more expensive bid includes 30-pound paper plus self-stick rubbery material along eaves to protect against damage from ice dams. Bids might also differ in whether they include the cost of disposing of the old roofing, on hourly rates for structural repairs, and on costs related to gutters.

Once you settle on a contractor, check to make sure the company is licensed and insured. Also discuss how the crew will minimize damage to landscaping, and who will pay for any that occurs. Schedule the roof work during dry weather, if possible, so your lawn doesn't take as much of a beating. You'll sleep better, too, if you're not worrying about rain coming in when the roof is half-done.

GET THE MOST FROM A NEW ROOF

A new roof isn't something most families buy happily. But getting multiple benefits from it makes it easier to shell out the money. As part of a new roofing project, you can incorporate many features that make your home more environmentally friendly, some of which may qualify for a federal tax credit to offset the cost. You can also choose roofing that's more resistant to fire or damage from wind and hail, which may qualify you for a discount of 30% or more on your homeowner's insurance policy.

Jeanne Huber writes a home-repair column for the Washington Post and has commissioned three new roofs on various houses over the years.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Heating Equipment: Repair or Replace?

Heating Equipment: Repair or Replace?

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Oliver Marks

Published: September 24, 2009

The decision to repair or replace heating equipment depends on its age, the cost of repair, and how much money a more efficient system will save you.

It happens eventually in every home. On a particularly frigid morning, you wake up and crank the thermostat just like usual, but there's no response: No comforting sound of the system firing up and no warmth rising from the air vents or radiators. Hopefully it's a simple problem that's a quick and inexpensive fix, like a tripped circuit breaker or a clogged filter. But occasionally the repair is so big and costly that it raises an age-old question that's been asked about everything from station wagons to vacuum cleaners: Is it more cost effective to fix what you have or replace it? Here's how to decide.

THINK SAFETY FIRST

If the problem presents a safety hazard, replacement is a no-brainer. For example, if your furnace has a cracked heat exchanger-the metal wall between the burning fuel and the air it's heating-poisonous carbon monoxide gas could work its way into the household air supply, something you don't want to risk. Other problems, like faulty electronics and stuck valves, can be repaired, which means you'll need to do a cost-benefit analysis.

CONSIDER THE TYPICAL LIFESPAN

A 2007 study by the National Association of Home Builders and Bank of America found that furnaces for forced-air systems last an average of 15 to 20 years; boilers for hot-water radiators and baseboards last 13 to 21 years. So start by dating your system. Some technicians write the year the equipment was installed directly on the unit. Otherwise, when the machine is off and cool, look for a metal identification plate, usually on the inside of chamber door. Record the model and serial numbers from the plate, then call the manufacturer's customer service number to get the date of manufacture.

Keep in mind that a 25- or even 30-year-old system isn't necessarily ready for the scrap heap. The published lifespans are averages, which means half of all systems are spent by that time, and the other half are still working well. Use these numbers as ballpark guidelines only, suggests Gopal Ahluwalia, the NAHB study's lead researcher.

ASSESS THE COSTS OF REPAIRING VERSUS REPLACING

To decide your system's fate, you need more data: the cost of your repair or replacement options, which your service provider can give you. Depending on the size of your house and the brand of new equipment you choose, a new hot-air furnace typically costs $1,500 to $4,000, while a boiler for a hot-water system might run $4,000 to $8,000.

As a general guideline, consider replacement if the equipment is beyond three-quarters of its life expectancy and repairs will cost more than a third of replacement, suggests Larry Howald of Broad Ripple Heating and Air Conditioning in Indianapolis. In other words, it's probably not worth spending $700 to repair a 15-year-old furnace you could replace for $2,000.

CONSIDER YOUR HEATING PLANT'S EFFICIENCY

In these days of high fuel costs and concerns over our carbon footprints, you should also consider your heating plant's efficiency. Its Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency number (AFUE) measures the percentage of the fuel that's converted to heat rather than being lost up the chimney or through other inefficiencies.

"If your system is 20 years old, its AFUE is probably about 70%," says Greg Gill of Action Air Conditioning and Heating in San Marcos, California. Today's minimum AFUE is 80%, which means you'll burn 10% less fuel-and therefore spend 10% less money on your heating bills. You can go as high a 95% AFUE with new equipment, dropping your bills a whopping 25%. That kind of efficiency raises your equipment costs to $3,500 to $6,000 for a furnace and $8,000 to $10,000 for a boiler, but will also earn you a 30% tax credit (up to $1,500) from the federal government. And there are many local tax incentives and manufacturers' rebates for super-efficient systems, too.

"It's definitely worth doing the math to see if the high-efficiency model will pay for itself," Gill says. According to Energy Star, upgrading to more efficient HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) equipment can cut heating and cooling costs by about 20%, or $200 a year on average, which means you could recoup the extra investment in as little as five years.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He's currently restoring his second fixer-upper with a mix of big hired projects and small do-it-himself jobs.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.