Listing and Selling Your Green Home

If you want to get the full value for your green home when it comes time to sell, use a green real estate agent and a green MLS.

You've upgraded your home with the latest green features and there's an eco-friendly buyer out there looking for a green home. How can the two of you connect?

CHOOSE A GREEN REAL ESTATE AGENT

Hire a real estate agent who knows as much about green homes as you do. About 5,000 REALTORS® nationwide have earned the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS Green Designation by taking classes in green building, sustainable business practices, and green home marketing. A private company offers the EcoBroker designation.

Questions to ask a REALTOR who specializes in green homes:

* Have you had special training in selling green homes?

* Do you serve buyers seeking green houses and do you have a list of buyers actively seeking green homes?

* How many green home sales have you completed in the past year?

* How do you market a green home differently than a regular home?

ASK WHETHER YOUR MLS IS GREEN

About 30 to 40 of the 900 home MLSs nationwide (databases where agents list properties for sale) have special fields in which your agent can identify your home's green features. Agents for potential buyers can search a green MLS to look for a green home or green features like solar panels or an energy-efficient furnace.

Over time, as the home MLS data grow, the results will help appraisers easily find comparable sales of green homes, which they can then use to more accurately value a green home like yours.

On the web, large sites that use home MLS data offer some green home search capacity. At http://www.realtor.com(http//www.Realtor.com), you can search broadly for energy-efficient homes, but not for specific features like solar panels. At Trulia.com you can use keyword search terms like "solar" or "green," but in addition to pulling homes with green features, that search will also bring back listings by real estate agents named Green and homes on streets with the word "solar" in the name.

Curious if your area has a green MLS? Among other places, you'll find them in:

* Albuquerque

* Austin, San Antonio, and Houston, Texas

* Charleston, S.C.

* Memphis and middle Tennessee

* Portland, Ore.

* Santa Barbara and southern California

* Traverse City, Mich.

* Triangle region of North Carolina

* Tucson and Phoenix, Ariz.

LIST YOUR HOME'S GREEN FEATURES

You can trumpet your home's greenness in two ways in the typical green MLS.

Your real estate agent can note if your home or its features have been officially certified or designated green. Then, agents for homebuyers interested in green homes can search for local designations as well as national designations and certifications like:

* Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED)

* Energy Star

* Enterprise Green Communities

* The Environmental Protection Agency's airPLUS Guidelines and Water Sense programs

* Home Energy Rating System (HERS Index)

* Living Building Challenge

* National Green Building Standard

The other way to highlight your house's green features is to specify them in the home MLS' searchable fields. For example, if you have solar panels, water-saving devices, or geothermal heating, your agent can check those fields. Real estate agents helping buyers interested in a green home can also use the search function to find green homes with specific features.

In some green MLSs, your agent can highlight the brand and model of energy-efficient appliances and building materials. The result is a movement toward a more standardized and accurate way for buyers to find the type of home they want and for you to highlight your home's green upgrades.

USE THE HOME MLS COMMENTS SECTION

What if your local home MLS isn't green? Your agent can market your home's green features in the home MLS by listing them in the additional remarks space. Work with your agent so she knows which features you'd like to highlight, which feature she recommends highlighting, and how those features contribute to your home's energy efficiency and eco-friendliness.

CAN YOU GET MORE MONEY FOR A GREEN HOME?

Data show your green home could sell faster and at a higher price than a similar house without green features. In 2009, certified green houses in Atlanta sold 31 days faster than traditional homes, according to the Earth Advantage Institute, a Portland, Ore., nonprofit that certifies green homes. Certified green houses in Seattle built from 2000 to 2008 sold for 8% to 9% more per square foot than traditional homes, according to local sales statistics.

MORE FROM HOUSELOGIC

Professional energy audits

What you should know about appraisals

OTHER WEB RESOURCES

REGREEN residential remodeling guidelines

More on tax credits for energy efficiency

G.M. Filisko is an attorney and award-winning writer who just added energy-efficient windows to her Chicago condo. A regular contributor to many national publications including Bankrate.com, REALTOR Magazine, and the American Bar Association Journal, she specializes in real estate, business, personal finance, and legal topics.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: G. M. Filisko

Published: August 04, 2010

Reprinted from HouseLogic (houselogic.com) with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

7 Tips for Saving Energy in the Laundry Room

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Douglas Trattner

Published: August 28, 2009

Understanding your laundry room appliances is part of a smart plan to help you save energy in your home.

Good laundry room habits, including some occasional minor maintenance, can save energy and shave nearly $300 off your annual utility bills. That's because you can curb the biggest energy culprit: the cost of heating water.

WASHING MACHINE

The bulk of a washing machine's operating costs-around 90%, says Energy Star - go to replacing the hot water in the home's hot water tank. Reduce the amount of hot water the appliance uses, and you'll significantly shrink its associated utility bills. By washing fewer loads and doing those loads in cooler water, you can save around $200 per year.

1. Use cold water. Switching from hot wash to cold, according Michael Bluejay, also known as Mr. Electricity, who specializes in electricity savings, can shave up to $215 per year off your electric bill. If you have a high-efficiency washer or gas-fueled water heater, assume savings of about half that figure. Cold washes are generally as effective in getting clothes clean as hot.

2. Only wash full loads. Discounting the energy required to heat the water, it costs around $60 per year in electricity to run the washer, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Because it takes just as much electricity to wash a small load as it does a full one, you'll save money by only washing full loads. By reducing the number of overall loads by one-quarter, you can save $15 a year.

CLOTHES DRYER

Because it's essentially a "toaster with a fan," says Amanda Korane of The American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, a nonprofit focused on advancing energy efficiency, the clothes dryer is a difficult appliance to make green. But that doesn't mean there aren't ways to lessen its impact on your utility bill to the tune of about $80 per year.

3. Spin it faster. Good dryer efficiency starts in the clothes washer. Setting the maximum spin speed in the washer will reduce the amount of time-and energy-it takes to get clothes dry. Many of today's high-speed washer spin cycles can cut dry times by as much as half compared with older models. If an average electric clothes dryer costs about $80 per year to operate, according to the DOE, savings can approach the $40 mark.

4. Clean lint filter and exhaust. Dryers have to work harder and longer to dry clothes when air doesn't freely flow. Cleaning the lint filter before every use and doing the same for the exhaust line once a year will help maintain maximum efficiency. Also, check that the duct hose is free from tight bends and obstructions. These small chores not only will save a few bucks per year, they will reduce the risk of fire.

5. Activate energy-saving features. If the dryer has an automated moisture-sensing device, use it. Setting the timer can cause the dryer to run longer than necessary. But a moisture sensor will automatically shut off the machine when it senses clothes are dry. This feature can save $8 to $12 a year.

6. Dry like with like. Lighter items, such as T-shirts and blouses, dry much quicker than heavy items like towels and blankets. Therefore, when these items are combined in the same load, some of the clothes continue to tumble long after they're dry. This extends the dry time of the bulkier items, in turn wasting a few bucks every month.

7. Skip it. Every load in the dryer costs around $0.35, according to Bluejay. Hanging clothing to dry on a line outside or rack inside costs nothing. Racks run about $25-$90 at online retailers. So, by giving the dryer a break even occasionally, savings can add up. Not only will the practice reduce utility bills, it will help extend the life of both the clothes and the appliance.

Douglas Trattner has covered household appliances and home improvement for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he's upgraded almost every household appliance. After lengthy deliberation, he recently replaced an aging top-load washing machine with an energy-efficient front-load unit.

Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

7 Tips for Saving Energy with Home Lighting

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Charlotte Barnard

Published: August 28, 2009

Lighting eats up as much as 20% of your annual electric bill, but using energy-efficient bulbs and making other simple changes can cut lighting costs dramatically.

Lighting is one of the biggest energy gobblers in your house, eating up between 10% and 20% of your total electric bill. But it's also one area of the home where a minimal effort can yield major returns. Simply replacing standard incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescents can lower operating costs by as much as 75% per bulb. And in places where you can't-or don't want to-switch to CFLs, you can use higher-efficiency incandescents and even make your existing conventional lighting cheaper to operate. When new federal legislation takes effect in 2012, all light bulbs will have to meet tougher energy-efficiency standards. But with a few small changes, you can start saving money right now.

FOR THE GREATEST SAVINGS, SWITCH TO COMPACT FLUORESCENTS

CFLs remain the go-to choice for energy efficiency. They last longer and consume less electricity than a standard incandescent. A 13-watt CFL, for example, gives off the same amount of light as a 60-watt incandescent and burns for 10,000 hours, compared with 1,000 hours for the conventional bulb. A typical CFL saves about $30 in operating costs over its lifetime.

Early CFLs didn't always deliver on light quality or convenience, but aesthetic performance has improved vastly in recent years. They now come in warm, neutral, and cool "colors," and major manufacturers like GE have started enclosing the telltale spiral in a conventional bulb shape so it's less obtrusive.

You get the biggest bang for your buck with CFLs in places where you would otherwise use incandescent bulbs: floor and table lamps and standard overhead fixtures. They last longer when they're not flipped on and off constantly, so they're especially good in rooms that see a lot of activity throughout the day, such as a kitchen or a playroom. A couple of caveats: CFLs can be glary, so they're not the best choice in downward-pointing fixtures like chandeliers, and most don't work with dimmers or timers. Because the bulbs contain mercury, they can't be thrown out in the regular trash. If you bought them at a home center, you should be able to return them there for recycling, or log on to recycleabulb.com to find a disposal center near you.

Cost and savings: Expect to pay $2 to $15 for a CFL, versus 50 cents to $1 for a comparable incandescent, but the CFL will last at least 10 times longer and cost up to 75% less to operate.

MAKE YOUR EXISTING INCANDESCENTS LESS EXPENSIVE TO RUN

By simply lowering the wattage of an incandescent bulb by 15 watts-from 75 to 60, for example-you can knock 15% off the operating cost. And you may not even notice the difference in brightness. "A small reduction in wattage isn't discernible to the eye," says Brett Sawyer, a consultant who blogs about sustainable home design. If the light is on a dimmer, for every 10% you lower the brightness, you'll double the bulb's life. Try this next weekend, Sawyer says: Replace your most-used bulbs with ones at least 10 watts lower. If you don't notice the difference, then replace all the incandescents you can with lower-wattage bulbs. Combine that with CFLs in selected fixtures, and you'll achieve a "light layering" effect that saves money without compromising light quality, and without a hefty upfront investment.

Cost and savings: For every 15-watt reduction, you reduce energy use by 15%. And a $10 dimmer, once installed, costs nothing to use.

KEEP AN EYE ON NEW BULB TECHNOLOGIES

Spurred on by new energy requirements set to go into effect in 2012, bulb manufacturers are working feverishly to come up with more efficient versions of the standard incandescent. Presently, companies including GE, Sylvania, and Philips offer high-efficiency incandescent and halogen bulbs that use less energy than standard incandescents while delivering the same light quality. And research is proceeding apace on how to bring the dramatic energy efficiency of LED technology to residential products. These lights, which require very little current and last even longer than CFLs, are prohibitively expensive for home use (except in certain applications like under-cabinet strip lighting), but that's likely to change in the coming years.

THINK BEYOND THE BULB TO SAVE ON LIGHTING COSTS

Changing bulbs is one way to reduce your lighting bill, but it's not the only way.

Motion sensors: Great in rooms where the occupants can't be counted on to turn off the light, such as a kids' playroom. Devices cost $15 to $50 and take about an hour to install.

Door-jamb switches: Best in a pantry or closet; opening the door activates the light. As much a convenience as it is an energy saver-as long as you remember to close the door. Devices starts at about $15.

Windows: You'd be surprised at how much a simple window cleaning can instantly improve natural light.

Energy Star fixtures: Designed for CFL and LED lights, these can save up to $70 a year in energy costs. Go to energystar.gov to find links to manufacturers.

Lifestyle expert Charlotte Barnard specializes in home improvement and decorating topics and also consults on consumer and residential trends for magazines, web sites, and retail ventures.

Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

5 Tips for Saving Energy in the Family Room

Article From HouseLogic.com

By: Jane Hodges

Published: September 23, 2009

Reduce your electricity bills by systematically purging your family room of wasteful energy practices.

The fun-a video game console, TV, DVR, DVD, and stereo system-that your family room provides comes with a price. By reducing standby power, using rechargeable batteries in remotes, and replacing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescents, you could save up to $130 a year in energy costs.

And if you're in the market for a new TV, you can save even more energy by being flexible on the type you buy.

1. Reconsider that plasma TV. The three biggest energy hogs in the family room are the plasma television, DVR/Tivo box, and digital cable box, says the nonprofit American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, which promotes energy efficiency to consumers and government policymakers.

A typical plasma TV (less than 40 inches) consumes 441 kilowatt hours of electricity per year, according to ACEEE. That translates into about $50 (based on 11.3 cents per kilowatt hour). Next up are TiVo devices at $41 annually, followed by digital cable boxes at $27. Both devices are always fully on because they constantly receive and download data.

Opting for an LCD (liquid crystal display) TV will cost about $8 to operate annually-for an annual savings of about $42 over the plasma. Of course, weigh your decision against the cost of a new TV.

2. Reduce standby power. Vampire power - the energy that's wasted by electronic devices that are plugged in, but not in use-represents about $100 per year in the average household's electricity costs, says Energy Star. Assuming the family room represents about 15% of your electricity bill, you could save about $15 per year with smart standby practices.

Unplug rarely used electronics (like that karaoke machine) altogether and cluster other appliances, even adapters for cell phones and digital cameras, onto power strips ($3-$12 for a six-outlet strip). Then you can fully turn off all attached electronics with one switch.

Unfortunately, some family room electronics, such as set-top boxes and downloading devices like TiVo, can't be turned off, because that would disrupt the digital data-gathering you've programmed them to do. But with a so-called smart power strip (about $20 to $40 through online retailers), you can completely turn off your TV while leaving the always-on DVR plugged in.

3. Opt for Energy Star-rated electronics. They're anywhere from 6% (audio products) to 75% (DVD players) more efficient than non-rated electronics. Take Energy Star-rated television sets. They use about one-third less energy than their nonrated counterparts.

If you can't live without plasma, consider an Energy Star model for which you'll pay $18 less per year in operating costs than for a nonrated one. If you use an Energy Star-rated digital cable box (ask your provider if any are available for no charge), you could pay 30% less for energy-an annual savings of about $8.50. Energy Star hasn't yet published data on swapping out a DVR or Tivo device.

4. Invest in rechargeable batteries. No, they won't help you save on your electric bill. But you'll save on the cost of batteries for your video game system and other entertainment remotes, according to PJ Stafford, founder of Green Irene, an eco-consulting company that provides energy and environmental makeovers to homeowners. You'll help the environment, too. For every rechargeable battery you buy, you prevent at least 500 single-use batteries from entering the waste stream, Stafford says.

Consider a game system charger station, which runs about $25, or outfit your media room with 10 rechargeable batteries and two chargers for $55 to $65. (Rechargeable AA and AAA batteries cost $3 to 3.50 apiece, versus 75 cents to $1 for disposables; a charger costs $25 to $30.) That investment in rechargeable batteries and chargers, in lieu of 500 batteries over four years, adds up to about $310 to $445 in savings. Buying a charging system for your video game system eliminates the need to buy batteries for the controllers.

Call your local trash collection service to find out which batteries can be recycled or taken to a transfer station versus being thrown away. If you're doing a major sweep-out of old batteries and appliances, consider Big Green Box, which lets you send your devices and batteries to a sustainable processing facility. Recycle old rechargeable batteries for free via programs like Call 2 Recycle.

5. Replace bulbs with compact fluorescents. By replacing one 60-watt incandescent bulb with the equivalent compact fluorescent in a family room where lights are on for four hours per day, you could save $7 per year. CFLs cost between $2 and $15.

Jane Hodges has written about real estate for publications including The Wall Street Journal, MSNBC.com, and The Seattle Times. In 2007 she won a Bivins Fellowship from the National Association of Real Estate Editors to pursue a book on women and real estate. Her work has also appeared in The New York Times, CBS's BNET, and Fortune. She lives in Seattle, in a 1966 raised rancher with an excellent retro granite fireplace. Latest home project: Remodeling a basement bathroom.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

When to Repair or Replace Large Appliances

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Douglas Trattner

Published: August 28, 2009

When deciding to repair or replace appliances, consider age, repair cost, pricing, energy efficiency, and whether to modify your kitchen to accommodate a new unit.

When your refrigerator, dishwasher, or washing machine act out, you may feel torn about whether to call a technician or junk the unit in favor of something new. In times of plenty, it's easy to convince yourself that a product requires replacement when all it really needs is a minor repair. But today, your more prudent self may be scrutinizing every financial decision. Conversely, the cost of repair can be a case of throwing away good money that could be better spent on a more energy-efficient model.

Use these six guidelines to home in on the smart choice for you the next time your appliances behave badly.

1. STILL UNDER WARRANTY?

Here's the simple part. Check the owner's manual and your records to see if the unit is still under warranty. If so, schedule a service call with an authorized technician.

Warranties vary widely between manufacturers, appliances, even retailers. Most cover parts and labor for a specified time, followed by a period of just parts. If you purchased an extended warranty from the retailer, examine that document as well.

2. NO LONGER UNDER WARRANTY-HOW OLD IS IT?

The closer an appliance is to the end of its average useful life, the wiser it is to replace rather than repair, says Jill A. Notini, vice president of communications for the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers. Average Useful Life is the typical age at which an appliance needs to be replaced because it dies or proves too costly to repair.

Given that most refrigerators last an average of 14 years, it may not be financially prudent to repair a 12-year-old model. Conversely, it might make sense to fix an 8-year-old built-in oven knowing that generally, it should last 16 years.

3. THE 50% RULE

For appliances that are no longer under warranty but still in the prime of their useful life, consider the 50% rule. If the cost of the repair will be more than half the price of a comparable replacement, it's generally wise to replace it, says Celia Kuperszmid Lehrman, deputy home editor at Consumer Reports magazine. The rationale? For the price of the repair and one future repair, you can enjoy a more reliable new machine.

To help make your decision, get a repair estimate. Service calls come with a price whether or not the appliance gets fixed, so factor that into your decision. Angie's List pegs the average cost of an appliance service call at $60 to $100, not counting the repair itself. Many service providers will deduct these charges if they're hired to complete the repairs. If you decide to go ahead with the repair, expect additional service visits to complete the process.

4. CAN YOU FIX IT YOURSELF?

Because labor accounts for more than half the cost of a typical repair, you can save big by tackling jobs yourself. Numerous online resources can help diagnose and fix common appliance ailments. Many of these same sites also maintain databases of owner's manuals while connecting appliance owners with reputable parts suppliers.

The downside? You risk causing additional damage to machines if you're not the handy person you thought you were. Worse, there's the danger of physical harm. And self-help repairs often nullify warranties.

5. FACTOR IN FUTURE ENERGY AND WATER SAVINGS

Present-day appliances are so much more energy and water efficient than previous models that it can be fiscally wise to upgrade rather than repair. A modern refrigerator uses roughly half the electricity of its 20-year-old predecessor, says Notini. New dishwashers get plates every bit as clean as older machines while using a fraction of the water and energy.

But replacing an aging appliance with a new highly efficient one still requires some evaluation. "If you intend to stay in your home for another 10 to 15 years, it may be worthwhile to upgrade to the latest efficient model, Notini says. If you're planning a move soon, it may be smarter to repair it and pass it on to the next homeowner.

6. TAKE INTO ACCOUNT HIDDEN COSTS

There's more to the cost of replacing an appliance than the price of the new machine. If you have built-in cook-tops and refrigerators, you may face costly modifications to countertops and cabinetry when you replace, says Lora C. Donoghue, a kitchen designer in Charlotte, N.C. Even so-called standard-size machines may not fit into the same space as your previous model as standards continue to evolve.

Or the placement of water connections and power outlets may differ. And switching from an electric range to gas can involve a costly visit from the plumber or utility company. Likewise, upgrading from an older gas range to a newer one with electronic features may require the installation of a new wall outlet.

Although these guidelines can help you make an orderly fiscal decision, you may find that your enjoyment of a new unit-perhaps your dream appliance is on sale-simply trumps everything else.

Douglas Trattner has covered household appliances and home improvement for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he's upgraded almost every appliance. After a lengthy deliberation, he recently replaced an aging top-load washing machine with an energy-efficient front-load variety.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Roofing: Repair or Replace?

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Jeanne Huber

Published: September 16, 2009

Deciding whether to repair or replace roofing is largely an exercise in timing--you don't want to reroof too soon and waste money, but you don't want to wait too long either.

Eventually, all roofs wear out and need to be replaced. You don't want to do it too soon, because you'll waste money. But you also don't want to wait too long, because then you'll end up with leaks and expensive water damage. To get the timing right, you need to know how to assess the overall condition of your roof and identify early signs of roof failure.

The national average for a new asphalt shingle roof is $19,731, according to Remodeling's 2009-10 Cost vs. Value Report, of which you'll recoup $13,133 at resale (66.6%). For high-end materials, such as standing-seam metal, the cost jumps to as much as $37,000.

If most of your roof is still in good shape, a spot repair makes sense. But if there are signs the roof is wearing out, or if it is more than 20 years old, replacing it may be the smarter choice.

BE ALERT TO EARLY SIGNS OF A ROOF LEAK

If you check the condition of your roof at least once a year, you should be able to plan in advance for necessary repairs. Early signs of trouble include dark areas on ceilings, peeling paint on the underside of roof overhangs, damp spots alongside fireplaces, and water stains on pipes venting the water heater or furnace.

From the outside, you can assess your roof's health by viewing it through binoculars. Warning signs include cracked caulk or rust spots on flashing; shingles that are buckling, curling, or blistering; and worn areas around chimneys, pipes, and skylights. If you find piles of grit from asphalt roof tiles in the gutters, that's a bad sign, since the granules shield the roof from the sun's damaging ultraviolet rays. Black algae stains are just cosmetic, but masses of moss and lichen could signal roofing that's decayed underneath.

If you're inspecting on your own and find worrisome signs, especially if the roof is old or there has been a storm with heavy wind or hail, get a professional assessment. Some roofing companies do this free; specialized roof inspectors, like those who work through the National Roof Certification and Inspection Association, charge about $175.

WHEN REPAIRS MAKE SENSE

You can usually repair a leak in a roof that is otherwise sound. The cost might range from $10 if you just need to squirt some roofing mastic into a gap alongside chimney flashing to $1,000 to fix a leak in a roof valley. If something sudden and unforeseen, such as a wind storm, causes a leak to appear, your homeowner's insurance will probably cover the repairs. But you're still responsible for limiting the damage, so put out buckets and try to get a local roofer to spread a tarp while you arrange for repairs. Insurance may not cover problems that stem from a worn-out roof or lack of maintenance.

THE COST OF RE-ROOFING

Stripping off old roofing and starting over typically costs about $3 a square foot for basic composition shingles. You may be able to leave an existing single layer and add a second layer on top of it for about $2 a square foot. If you plan to stay in the house for only a few years, this might seem like a smart way to save. But unless you're so pressed for cash that your only other option is to risk leaks, it's false economy. The second layer won't last as long-only about 15 years rather than the standard 20-and you won't get new flashing or underlayment or the opportunity to upgrade to features that make a roof stronger. Plus, when you go to sell, your re-covered roof will look a little lumpy, and potential buyers may interpret the two layers as a sign that other home improvements were also done on the cheap.

MAKE SURE TO FACTOR IN HIDDEN COSTS

When you evaluate bids, don't just look at the total. A bare-bones estimate might include a single layer of 15-pound building paper under the roofing, while a better but more expensive bid includes 30-pound paper plus self-stick rubbery material along eaves to protect against damage from ice dams. Bids might also differ in whether they include the cost of disposing of the old roofing, on hourly rates for structural repairs, and on costs related to gutters.

Once you settle on a contractor, check to make sure the company is licensed and insured. Also discuss how the crew will minimize damage to landscaping, and who will pay for any that occurs. Schedule the roof work during dry weather, if possible, so your lawn doesn't take as much of a beating. You'll sleep better, too, if you're not worrying about rain coming in when the roof is half-done.

GET THE MOST FROM A NEW ROOF

A new roof isn't something most families buy happily. But getting multiple benefits from it makes it easier to shell out the money. As part of a new roofing project, you can incorporate many features that make your home more environmentally friendly, some of which may qualify for a federal tax credit to offset the cost. You can also choose roofing that's more resistant to fire or damage from wind and hail, which may qualify you for a discount of 30% or more on your homeowner's insurance policy.

Jeanne Huber writes a home-repair column for the Washington Post and has commissioned three new roofs on various houses over the years.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Heating Equipment: Repair or Replace?

Heating Equipment: Repair or Replace?

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Oliver Marks

Published: September 24, 2009

The decision to repair or replace heating equipment depends on its age, the cost of repair, and how much money a more efficient system will save you.

It happens eventually in every home. On a particularly frigid morning, you wake up and crank the thermostat just like usual, but there's no response: No comforting sound of the system firing up and no warmth rising from the air vents or radiators. Hopefully it's a simple problem that's a quick and inexpensive fix, like a tripped circuit breaker or a clogged filter. But occasionally the repair is so big and costly that it raises an age-old question that's been asked about everything from station wagons to vacuum cleaners: Is it more cost effective to fix what you have or replace it? Here's how to decide.

THINK SAFETY FIRST

If the problem presents a safety hazard, replacement is a no-brainer. For example, if your furnace has a cracked heat exchanger-the metal wall between the burning fuel and the air it's heating-poisonous carbon monoxide gas could work its way into the household air supply, something you don't want to risk. Other problems, like faulty electronics and stuck valves, can be repaired, which means you'll need to do a cost-benefit analysis.

CONSIDER THE TYPICAL LIFESPAN

A 2007 study by the National Association of Home Builders and Bank of America found that furnaces for forced-air systems last an average of 15 to 20 years; boilers for hot-water radiators and baseboards last 13 to 21 years. So start by dating your system. Some technicians write the year the equipment was installed directly on the unit. Otherwise, when the machine is off and cool, look for a metal identification plate, usually on the inside of chamber door. Record the model and serial numbers from the plate, then call the manufacturer's customer service number to get the date of manufacture.

Keep in mind that a 25- or even 30-year-old system isn't necessarily ready for the scrap heap. The published lifespans are averages, which means half of all systems are spent by that time, and the other half are still working well. Use these numbers as ballpark guidelines only, suggests Gopal Ahluwalia, the NAHB study's lead researcher.

ASSESS THE COSTS OF REPAIRING VERSUS REPLACING

To decide your system's fate, you need more data: the cost of your repair or replacement options, which your service provider can give you. Depending on the size of your house and the brand of new equipment you choose, a new hot-air furnace typically costs $1,500 to $4,000, while a boiler for a hot-water system might run $4,000 to $8,000.

As a general guideline, consider replacement if the equipment is beyond three-quarters of its life expectancy and repairs will cost more than a third of replacement, suggests Larry Howald of Broad Ripple Heating and Air Conditioning in Indianapolis. In other words, it's probably not worth spending $700 to repair a 15-year-old furnace you could replace for $2,000.

CONSIDER YOUR HEATING PLANT'S EFFICIENCY

In these days of high fuel costs and concerns over our carbon footprints, you should also consider your heating plant's efficiency. Its Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency number (AFUE) measures the percentage of the fuel that's converted to heat rather than being lost up the chimney or through other inefficiencies.

"If your system is 20 years old, its AFUE is probably about 70%," says Greg Gill of Action Air Conditioning and Heating in San Marcos, California. Today's minimum AFUE is 80%, which means you'll burn 10% less fuel-and therefore spend 10% less money on your heating bills. You can go as high a 95% AFUE with new equipment, dropping your bills a whopping 25%. That kind of efficiency raises your equipment costs to $3,500 to $6,000 for a furnace and $8,000 to $10,000 for a boiler, but will also earn you a 30% tax credit (up to $1,500) from the federal government. And there are many local tax incentives and manufacturers' rebates for super-efficient systems, too.

"It's definitely worth doing the math to see if the high-efficiency model will pay for itself," Gill says. According to Energy Star, upgrading to more efficient HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) equipment can cut heating and cooling costs by about 20%, or $200 a year on average, which means you could recoup the extra investment in as little as five years.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He's currently restoring his second fixer-upper with a mix of big hired projects and small do-it-himself jobs.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Air Conditioning Equipment: Repair or Replace?

From Houselogic.com

By: Oliver Marks

Published: December 04, 2009

If you're deciding whether to repair or replace central air conditioning equipment, assess the quality of your house's ductwork and insulation first.

So much has changed in the world of air conditioning in recent years that if your system has almost any significant breakdown-or if it's just not keeping you as cool as it used to-it may be worth replacing it instead of repairing it. As of 2010, for example, manufacturers must use a new kind of refrigerant that's not an ozone-depleting chlorofluorocarbon. And a new system can use less than half the electricity of your old one while doing a far better job of keeping you cool and comfortable.

If your air conditioner is more than eight years old, repair is probably not worth the expense, unless it's a simple problem like debris clogging the condenser unit or a worn fan belt. Still, to best weigh your repair-or-replace decision, ask your contractor to assess not just the condition of your existing equipment, but also the ducts that deliver the cool air and the overall quality of the insulation in your house. Improving those elements might increase the effectiveness of the system as much or more than installing new machinery.


ASSESS THE EFFICIENCY OF YOUR CURRENT SYSTEM

Even if your central air conditioner is just eight to 10 years old, it could suck up to twice the electricity that even a low-end new one would use. That's because it operates at or below 10 SEER, or Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, which is the amount of energy needed to provide a specific cooling output. Until 2006, 10 SEER was standard, but these days, the minimum allowed by federal law is 13 SEER. That translates to 30% less electrical consumption and 30% lower cooling bills than equipment installed just a few years ago.

For an 1,800 square foot house, a new 13 SEER unit will cost $3,000 to $4,000. You can double your energy savings by jumping up to 16 SEER, which will reduce cooling expenses by 60% over a 10 SEER unit. At $5,000 to $6,000, these super-efficient units are more expensive, but they qualify for a 30% federal tax credit of up to $1,500 and possibly local incentives, too. So the added cost might be negligible.

"Your installer can run the numbers for you to see whether it's worth the additional cost," says Ellis Guiles of TAG Mechanical in Syracuse, New York. "If you're south of the Mason Dixon line, certainly, you can make up those dollars pretty quickly."

INSPECT THE CONDITION OF THE DUCTWORK

You could upgrade to the highest efficiency gear available and still not feel comfortably cool on hot days. That's because the mechanicals are only part of the central air system. The average house's ductwork leaks 10% to 30% of its air before it can reach your living space, according to Pacific Gas & Electric. Before deciding whether to repair or replace your condenser and blower units, your technician should run a duct-leakage test, by sealing the vents and measuring how much air escapes the system.

If the ducts are inefficient, he can locate and seal the gaps, typically for $25 to $35 per vent (per "run" in industry jargon), or replace the ductwork entirely with new, insulated pipe for around $100 per run, according to Guiles. Your technician may recommend doing the duct improvements in conjunction with replacement of the mechanicals or may recommend only one or the other job.

CONSIDER THE BUILDING ENVELOPE ITSELF

If your house is poorly insulated, it's putting a strain on your aging air conditioner. Resolving the house's flaws may mean that your old system will have enough cooling power to continue to do the job for a few more years. Or it may enable you to buy a smaller replacement system, lowering your upfront and ongoing energy costs significantly.

Your heating and cooling contractor should assess and, if necessary, upgrade the building envelope. For example, he might seal gaps and cracks in the outer walls and attic floor, or he might blow insulation into the walls, either of which could knock as much as 30% off your heating and cooling costs. This work too may be eligible for federal and local tax credits-and in some cases, it may be a more effective solution to your cooling problems than replacing your equipment.

MAKE SURE A NEW SYSTEM IS SIZED RIGHT

If you decide to replace, make sure the contractor's bid includes a load calculation, which is a computer printout showing how big a system you need and why.

Air conditioning is measured by the ton, which is the cooling power of a one-ton block of ice melting in 24 hours. Some old-school installers use a ballpark estimate for sizing equipment-say, one ton for every 400 or 600 square feet of living space. But that typically leads to systems that are too big, according to Greg Gill of Action Air Conditioning and Heating in San Marcos, Calif. Not only do oversized systems cost more, but they also do their cooling work too quickly, which means more frequent on/off cycles, wearing out components and gobbling electricity. Plus, they don't have a chance to effectively dehumidify the air.

Good contractors use load-calculating software that factors in such data as the number of windows in your house, the thickness of insulation, the configuration of the attic, and the building's orientation to the sun. It produces not only an exact tonnage requirement, but determines how much cool air each room needs. All bids (get at least three, from licensed, well-regarded companies) should include this one-page printout.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He's currently restoring his second fixer-upper with a mix of big hired projects and small do-it-himself jobs.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Water Heaters: Repair or Replace?

Water Heaters: Repair or Replace?

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Joe Bousquin

Published: August 28, 2009

When deciding whether to repair or replace a water heater, consider its age, the severity of the problem, and how much money a new energy-efficient unit will save.

Chances are you don't give your water heater much thought-until you get hit with that first icy-cold shower, or go down to the basement to find the unit sitting in a puddle of water. Then you have to think fast: Repair it or replace it?

If it's a conventional storage-tank water heater nearing the end of its 10- to 13-year life span, the answer is easy. New models are up to 20% more efficient, saving as much as $700 in energy costs over the life of the unit. If your water heater is only a few years old, whether it's worth fixing depends on the severity of the problem and the cost of the repair. Not sure whether to repair or replace? Here are some considerations to help you decide.

IS IT A MAJOR PROBLEM OR A MINOR ONE?

A conventional water heater is simple. Cold water enters the tank, where it gets heated by an electric element or gas burner. A thermostat regulates the temperature (usually between 120 and 140 degrees). As the water heats up, pressure builds inside the tank. When you turn on a tap, the pressure is released, sending hot water to the faucet.

Because there are few moving parts, not much can go wrong. Before you even pick up the phone to call for service, check the basics, such as the pilot light in a gas unit and the circuit breaker in your electrical panel for an electric one. "Make sure it's not a control issue first," says Mike Rogers, senior vice president at home performance firm GreenHomes America. "It could be an easy fix."

Other possibilities include a burner or element going bad, the thermostat failing, or a stuck valve. Repairing or replacing those parts is usually not expensive; pros like Sean Hicks of home warranty company Warrantech say a plumber should be able to do the job for between $150 and $300. If the water heater is relatively new, that might make sense. But if it's more than 10 years old, or if the tank is leaking, that's another story.

WHEN REPLACEMENT IS THE ONLY CHOICE

Over time, water heater tanks can corrode, the result of naturally occurring minerals in the water reacting with the steel. Once a tank springs a leak, repair isn't an option.

The good news here is that today's models are far more energy-efficient than those of even a few years ago. Manufacturers now inject foam insulation between the tank and its outer shell, resulting in much higher heat retention. Glass liners on the inside mean the tanks are less prone to corrosion, too. "Today, that water heater is more like a giant Thermos," says David Chisholm of manufacturer State Water Heaters.

Expect to pay between $500 and $1,500 to purchase and install a new conventional storage unit. A high-efficiency model that meets Energy Star standards saves up to 20% in energy costs. Tankless, heat pump, and solar units offer even bigger savings and also qualify for a federal tax credit of 30% of the total cost of equipment and installation, up to $1,500. While substantially more energy efficient, these types of water heaters can cost three to five times more to buy and install, so consider payback carefully. "If you're going to be in the home 15 or 20 years, you'll get your money back," says Warrantech's Hicks. "If you move a lot, you won't."

MAKE SURE TO FACTOR IN HIDDEN COSTS

Even with a conventional water heater, replacement might not be as simple as hauling out the old one and hooking up the new. Many cities have updated their building codes in recent years, so if you replace your water heater, you may have to upgrade the mount it sits on, the size or type of its venting system, the drain pan underneath it, even the supply pipes. Before work starts, ask your installer to tell you about any additional costs.

If you know your way around plumbing tasks, you may be able to install the new unit yourself. Most manufacturers provide detailed instructions. You'll need to turn off the water and gas or electric before you begin, and take particular care to vent gas models properly.

GET THE MOST FROM YOUR WATER HEATER

Whether you repair it or replace it, your water heater will perform better and last longer if you flush the tank once a year to remove sediment. A bonus: Without all that gunk inside, it will operate more efficiently, saving you money. Also, check the anode rod-sometimes called the sacrificial rod-every three years. An aluminum or magnesium probe inside the tank, it collects corrosive elements and should be replaced when it gets caked or eaten away. A new one costs about $30. Stay on top of these simple maintenance tasks, and you can avoid thinking about your water heater again for a good long time.

Joe Bousquin's work has appeared in the Wall Street Journal, Kiplinger's Personal Finance, and Men's Journal. The happy owner of a 79-year-old home in Sacramento, Calif., he has a new reverence for his water heater.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

12 Tips for Saving Energy in Your Home Office

Cut your power consumption, lighting, and heating and cooling costs when you work from home.

With roughly 34 million telecommuting adults in America-a number slated to double by 2016, according to Forrester Research-adjustments to your home office power consumption, lighting, and heating and cooling can impact the environment and your wallet-up to about $200 per year in energy costs.

DOWN-SHIFT YOUR POWER CONSUMPTION

1. Activate power-management settings.
Home office electronics have multiple power modes: active (or "on"), active standby ("on" but consuming less than 100% power), and passive standby (or "off"), according to the nonprofit American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy, which promotes energy efficiency to consumers and government policy makers.

You can instruct your computer to move into lower-consumption modes automatically when you've stopped using it temporarily-during a lunch hour or phone call, for instance-yet also wake up when you're ready to resume working. Such tactics can reduce your computer-related electricity costs by $25 to $75 per machine annually, says Energy Star.

Energy Star-rated power management features are available on Macintosh and Windows platforms (XP, Vista, 2000). Energy Star offers tips for how to adjust settings on different platforms.

Other providers offer help, too: Software vendor Verdiem offers a power management set-up tool called Edison and EnergyStar offers a similar tool called EZ Wizard, both of which guide you through the process of setting up power management.

If you're uneasy launching power management protocols yourself, you can pay software companies' IT pros to log on to your computer remotely and adjust your settings. Symantec, for instance, charges about $20 for its"GreenPC" service.

2. Use a power strip for your computer, printer, copier, and other peripherals.
If you plug office electronics into a power strip, you can switch all of them fully off (versus leaving them in"standby" mode with one button. Power strips cost around $3 to $12 from online retailers. Standby power-the energy that's wasted by electronic devices that are plugged in, but not in use-represents about $100 per year in the average household's electricity costs, says Energy Star. Assuming your home office equipment represents about 4% of your electricity bill, you could save up to $4 a year.

3. If you're investing in new computer equipment, look for Energy Star-rated computers, small servers, copiers, fax machines, and adapters.
Energy Star estimates that using these rated electronics in your home office can save $115 over the products' lifetimes.

4. Consider a laptop over a desktop.
Laptops use one-third the power (22 watts) of a typical desktop (68 watts) when in active mode, according to ACEEE. Annually, a laptop could save you about $19 compared with a desktop.

5. Opt for a flat-panel vs. CRT monitor.
A cathode-ray tube monitor consumes about 70 watts of power, while an LCD or flat-panel eats only 27, according to ACEEE data. That's about $1 in savings over year.

REDUCE LIGHTING COSTS

6. Replace traditional bulbs with compact fluorescents.
By replacing one 60-watt incandescent bulb with an equivalent compact fluorescent in a home office where lights are on for eight hours per day, you could save up to $15 per year, according to Energy Star.

7. Buy CFL versions of halogen lights.
If you like the look or brightness of halogen or torchiere lamps, the The Edison Electric Institute recommends buying compact fluorescent versions that consume less than 25% of the power (55 to 65 watts) of conventional versions (300 watts) and cost about the same.

8. Consider task lighting.
Opting for a desk lamp versus whole-room lighting lets you use fewer bulbs concurrently, according to The Institute.

9. Locate lamps in corners.
The adjoining walls will magnify the light across the room.

10. Turn off lights when leaving a room.

KEEP HEATING AND COOLING COSTS AT BAY

11. Lower thermostats 10% during the day (to 62, for instance, from 68).
This can save up to 10% on annual heating and cooling bills, according to the DOE, or about $100 per year. Supplement with thick slippers and sweaters in winter and keep windows open in summer, with shades down in the afternoon.

12. Use a space heater in winter and a portable or ceiling fan in summer.
Both room-specific solutions cost far less than running whole-house systems at maximum capacity. Using fans or space heaters will eat into your savings for lowering the thermostat, but not nearly as much as using a central heating or cooling system throughout the house. Fans can run $25-$150; space heaters, $10-$80 at online retailers.

If your office is one-third the size of your house or smaller, you can safely estimate that space heating will be more cost-effective than heating the entire home just for the sake of the office, according to NYSEG, a utility company in Rochester, N.Y.

Optimizing your home office for maximum energy efficiency requires little effort, but can help lower your home's overall energy consumption and annual utility bill without hampering productivity.

Jane Hodges has written about real estate for publications including The Wall Street Journal, MSNBC.com, and The Seattle Times. In 2007, she won a Bivins Fellowship from the National Association of Real Estate Editors to pursue a book on women and real estate. Her work has also appeared in The New York Times, CBS's BNET, and Fortune. She lives in Seattle, in a 1966 raised rancher with an excellent retro granite fireplace. Latest home project: Remodeling a basement bathroom.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Jane Hodges

Published: September 09, 2009

Reprinted from HouseLogic with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

"Cash for Appliances" Expected to Boost NC Economy

North Carolina shoppers only have four days to take advantage of a "Cash for Appliances" program offering 15% off new Energy Star appliances. Some local retailers are staying open longer and offering extra discounts to cash in on the anticipated rush.

North Carolina chose Earth Day to kick off the NC Energy Efficient Appliance Replacement and Rebate Program. The program offers North Carolina residents a 15% instant savings when they purchase new Energy Star clothes washers, dishwashers, refrigerators & freezers to replace old appliances. That means that an appliance that normally costs $500 will only cost $425. Shoppers will have to hurry to take advantage of the savings though. The program only runs from Thursday, April 22 through Sunday, April 25, 2010.

The so-called "Cash for Appliances" program is similar to its predecessor, "Cash for Clunkers." The $8.8 million North Carolina program is part of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act. Each state decided how to distribute their allotted funds. This program is designed to stimulate the economy with sales of new appliances and create energy savings by getting Americans to trade older appliances for newer, more energy efficient models.

"Appliances consume a huge amount of our electricity, so there's enormous potential to both save energy and save families money every month," said Department of Energy Secretary Steven Chu in a press release. "These rebates will help families make the transition to more efficient appliances, making purchases that will directly stimulate the economy and create jobs."

North Carolina's program is similar to a program Florida launched last week. Florida planned for its program to last 10 days, but after the second day, the $17.5 million it allotted for the program had been exhausted. Florida's program offered 20% off the purchase of new energy efficient appliances. That means that Floridians spent $87.5 million on appliances in just two days. That means North Carolina shoppers may want to get out and take advantage of the offer sooner, rather than later.

Local appliance retailers are anticipating many more shoppers than usual, thanks to the program. Some are planning extended hours to accommodate the rush and others are even offering additional savings.

"I think a lot of people have been aware of the program and they've been looking ahead," Mindy Hughes of Crossroads Appliance Center in Supply told the Wilmington Star-News. Her store launched an advertising campaign about the rebate last month. "We've got a couple of remodels that have been sparked off by this program, which is great for us. Once they get one new item, they look at remodeling the whole kitchen." Hughes is planning on opening her store an hour early and staying open as late as necessary to serve her customers.

Atlantic Appliance is normally open 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Thursday and Friday and 10 a.m.-2 p.m. on Saturday. Instead, it will stay open until 8 p.m. these days. It will still be closed on Sunday.

Just across from Coldwell Banker Sea Coast Realty's main office, retailer hhgregg in Mayfaire Town Center will be open 6 a.m.-9 p.m. Thursday thru Saturday. It's also offering 30% off Energy Star appliances those days. The store is also open Sunday 11 a.m.-7 p.m., but some anticipate the funds for the "Cash for Appliances" program may be exhausted by then.

Lowe's and Home Depot are offering an additional 10% off Energy Star appliances more than $398. Both retailers are open Thursday thru Saturday 6 a.m.-10 p.m. and Sunday 8 a.m.-8 p.m, though Home Depot will open at 5 a.m. Thursday.

Thru Saturday, Sears is offering 30% off Energy Star appliances, in addition to the 15% "Cash for Appliances" savings. Its store hours vary by location.

To qualify for the North Carolina "Cash for Appliances" program, Energy Star clothes washers, dishwashers, refrigerators & freezers must be replacing an older appliance that will be recycled. Sales tax will be applied to the price of the appliance prior to the 15% instant rebate. Buyers must be North Carolina residents and purchase the new appliances from a participating North Carolina retailer. For more information on NC Energy Efficient Appliance Replacement and Rebate Program, please visit ncappliancerebate.com.

Participating retailers in our area are:

Onslow County

• Best Buy, 1116 Western Blvd., Jacksonville
• Boomtown Furniture, 625 New Bridge Street, Jacksonville
• Freedom Furniture and Electronics, 2153 Lejeune Blvd., Jacksonville
• Furniture Fair, 507 Bell Fork Road, Jacksonville
• Furniture Fair, 2015 Lejeune Blvd., Jacksonville
• Home Depot, 479 Western Blvd. Hwy 17, Jacksonville
• Lowe's, 1255 Western Blvd., Jacksonville
• Lowe's, 425 Yopp Road, Jacksonville
• Major Appliance & Furniture Co., 2129 Lejeune Blvd., Jacksonville
• Marine Corps Community Services, Birch and Holcomb Streets, Camp Lejeune
• Sears, 344 Jacksonville Mall, Jacksonville
  

Pender County

• Lowe's, 106 Wilkes Lane, Hampstead
• Sears, 15530 US Highway 17, Hampstead
  

New Hanover County

• Atlantic Appliance & Hardware, 914 S. Kerr Avenue, Wilmington
• Badcock Home Furniture & More, 2642 Carolina Beach Road, Wilmington
• Best Buy, 309 S. College Road, Wilmington
• Ferguson Bath & Kitchen Gallery, 1925 Dawson St., Wilmington
• hhgregg, 830 Inspiration Drive, Wilmington
• Home Depot, 5511 Carolina Beach Road, Wilmington
• Home Depot, 210 Eastwood Road, Wilmington
• Island Appliance, 5946 Carolina Beach Road, Wilmington
• Kitchen Dreams, 700 Military Cutoff Road, Wilmington
• Lowe's, 5110 S. College Road, Wilmington
• Lowe's, 354 S. College Road, Wilmington
• Sears, 3500 Oleander Drive, Wilmington
  

Brunswick County

• Badcock Home Furniture & More, 4511 N. Main Street, Shallotte
• Crossroads Appliance Center, 50 Green Swamp Road N.W., Supply
• Home Depot 150-1 Shallotte Crossing, Shallotte
• Lowe's, 351 Whiteville Road, Shallotte
• Lowe's, 5084 Southport Supply Road S.E., Southport
• Sears, 5302 Main Street, Shallotte
• Shallotte Electric Stores, 4900 Main Street, Shallotte
  

Duplin County

• Brandsource, 111 E. Southerland Street, Wallace
• Brewer Co. True Value Hardware, 348 N.E. Center Street, Faison
• Harrell's Department Store, 107 S. Wright Street, Burgaw
• Lanier & Smith Ace Hardware, 4646 South NC Highway 50, Chinquapin
• Page Audio-Video-Appliances, 312 N. Front Street, Warsaw
• Rochelle Furniture Co., 111 W. Fremont Street, Burgaw
• Sears, 1315 N. Norwood Street, Wallace