Low-Maintenance Lawn Alternatives: Ground Cover

If you want a yard that demands less time, money, and water, consider ground cover rather than a traditional lawn.

Americans have long had a soft spot for lawns. Turf grass covers nearly 47 million acres in the U.S., according to the Lawn Institute. But there's plenty that's not green about all that green. For starters, the average household dumps 60 gallons of water a day on conventional lawns. Toxic lawn herbicides and pesticides run off into lakes and streams. Gas-powered mowers spew pollution into the air. And then there's all that time spent watering, weeding, seeding, sodding, thatching, and mulching.

If you're looking for an alternative, consider replacing some or all of your high-maintenance turf with ground covers that form walkable "carpets," and innovative grasses that require little or no water or mowing once established.

In turn, you'll reduce the need for irrigation, stop washing harmful chemicals into the watershed, add depth and texture to your landscape, and spend your spare time enjoying your yard instead of manicuring it.

CREEPING PERENNIALS, CLOVER, AND OTHER GROUND COVERS

There's a ground cover to meet most needs, whether you're planting a pathway, a hedge, or a broad swath of green. They run the gamut of foliage textures and colors, and many have wonderful flowers. Some varieties are ground-hugging and feel delicious under bare feet. Others grow up to two feet tall, making them ideal as barriers or landscape punctuation.

Look for attributes that meet your needs: child-durable, deer-resistant, drought-tolerant, shade-loving. Mixing them up is not only aesthetically pleasing, it's also good for the landscape: Diversity increases resistance to pests and disease and reduces the need for fertilizer and pesticides. Here are some popular choices.

Creeping perennials: Tight to the ground, these plants are especially good for cushy green carpets. They keep out weeds and allow air, water, and nutrients to get to plant roots. Many work equally well in rock gardens or in crevices between stepping stones, in full or partial sun. These include mat-forming New Zealand Brass Buttons (Cotula squalida) and Scotch or Irish Moss (Sagina subulata), which isn't a moss at all but a perennial that forms a cushiony blooming carpet.

Some, like Blue Star Creeper (Laurentia fluviatilis), which has tiny green foliage, bear up to heavy foot traffic. Creeping Jenny (Convolvulus arvensis) has an extensive root system that makes it quick to spread and tough to kill. That's a good thing if you're looking for a tough turf alternative but a problem if it creeps into beds where you don't want it.

Besides being good creepers, many ground-hugging perennial herbs are often nicely scented, hardy under foot traffic, and even edible. These include chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile), which has fern-like foliage and white flowers with yellow centers; Corsican mint (Mentha requienii), which thrives in shade, exudes a minty smell when trod upon, and is edible; and various thymes (Woolly, Red, Prostrate), which feature dainty flowers and work well between pavers or as a low mounding carpet.

Creeping perennials cost $6 to $10 per plant. A 15-by-20-foot area with plants 2 inches apart (for instant density) requires 300 plants. But if you're patient enough to wait a year or so for them to spread, you can buy fewer plants and space them 12 inches apart.

Clover: Although clover has gotten a bad rap as a weed, it's actually not a weed at all. In fact, a clover lawn (or, for high-traffic areas, a clover-grass mix) has many advantages. Sweet-scented, inexpensive, and quite durable, white clover (Trifolium repens) grows in any kind of soil, stays green even during low-water periods, and feels lovely underfoot.

Low-growing clover doesn't need regular cutting, nor does it need fertilizer, but an occasional mow will encourage new growth and discourage bees. If you don't mind the bees, consider letting your clover bloom, which benefits the bees and the environment. Clover is one of the least expensive groundcover options, costing about $4 to seed 4,000 square feet.

Laura Fisher Kaiser writes about architecture, design, and sustainability. She is in the process of letting clover, moss, and creeping jenny take over what's left of her Washington, DC, lawn.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Laura Fisher Kaiser

Published: March 18, 2010

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

Lawn Maintenance Calendar

Regular lawn maintenance gives your home maximum curb appeal and preserves the value of your property.

A healthy, well-maintained lawn is more than just good-looking-it's a key to preserving the value of your home. Regular lawn maintenance enhances curb appeal, making your home-and neighborhood-attractive to passersby and potential buyers.

According to Su Chi Straka-Phillis, a residential real estate appraiser with Central Appraisal Services of Parma, Ohio, a well-kept lawn preserves a home's value.

Put off routine maintenance, and you risk devaluing your home. In fact, an unkempt lawn can be a warning sign to buyers of other potential home maintenance issues, explains Cecilia Sherrard, a real estate agent in Rocky River, Ohio. "The outside of the home is the first thing people see, and if it's not properly maintained, many will not be interested in scheduling a showing to see the inside."

KNOW YOUR GRASS TYPE

There are two main types of lawn grass: cool-season and warm-season. Homeowners living in the Northeast, Midwest, and Northwest should grow cool-season grasses. As depicted on the Plant Heat-Zone Map provided by the American Horticultural Society, the regions for cool-season grasses are approximately zones 1 through 7.

Cool-season grasses do most of their growing in spring and fall, often going dormant in the summer. Cool-season grasses include bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, and St. Augustine grass.

Those living in the Southeast and Southwest (zones 8 through 12) will generally have warm-season grasses. Warm-season grasses thrive from late spring to early fall and go dormant in the winter. Varieties include tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass.

If you're unsure which zone applies to you, check your state extension service.

MOWING

Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall

"The taller the grass, the deeper the roots, the fewer the weeds, and the more moisture the soil holds between watering," explains Richard Hentschel of the University of Illinois Extension. Hentschel recommends the mower blade height be permanently set to 3 inches.

In prime growing season (spring and fall for cool-season; summer for warm), homeowners should mow frequently enough so they're removing no more than one-third of the grass blade. If possible, resist the urge to mow the grass when wet, as the practice can spread diseases that affect lawns.

Mower blades should be sharpened monthly to ensure clean, sharp cuts. A dull blade tears the grass, leaving jagged edges that discolor the lawn and invite pathogens. Consider spending about $20 for a backup blade so that a sharp one is always on hand.

WATERING

Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall

Deep and infrequent watering is better for lawns than frequent sprinkles, which promote shallow root growth, says Hentschel. In general, lawns need about one inch of water per week to maintain green color and active growth.

Lawns that receive less than that will likely go into dormancy. To stay alive, dormant lawns should still receive at least 1 inch of water per month.

To check the output of a sprinkler, scatter some pie tins around the yard to see how much water collects in a specific length of time. Having a rain gauge ($5 to $20) will help you keep track of how much water the lawn receives naturally. Allowing a cool-season lawn to go dormant in the summer can save hundreds of gallons of water, depending on the size of your lawn.

FEEDING

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Early fall

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late spring

"It used to be common to fertilize a lawn three or four times per year," says Hentschel. "Now we suggest just once a year when it will do the most good." For cool-season grasses, that time is early fall, so the grass enters winter dormancy in a much healthier state.

For warm-season grasses, the best time to fertilize is late spring, just as the grass begins its most active growth. For best results, closely follow the application directions on the product. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

People interested in organic fertilizers have never had an easier time finding them at local garden centers. Homeowners who mow regularly with mulching mowers are encouraged to leave the clippings on the ground, where they'll decompose and recycle nutrients into the soil.

WEED-CONTROL HERBICIDE APPLICATION

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Fall

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late winter

Homeowners should embrace the idea that an occasional weed is OK, says Hentschel. For minor weed invasions, removal by hand of the entire plant and roots is recommended. When the situation becomes impossible to contain by hand, it might be necessary to apply an herbicide.

For cool-season grasses, the best time to apply a weed killer is in fall, when both old and new weeds can be eliminated before winter. Warm-season grasses often benefit from a late-winter application of a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weeds from growing.

In place of weed and feed products, which are spread over the entire lawn, Hentschel prefers liquid-based herbicides that are applied only where needed. It's imperative to read and follow all directions on herbicide labels. Cost is around $15 to $45 per application.

GRUB CONTROL

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Early summer

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Late summer

Grub worms, the larval stage of June, Japanese, and other beetles, feed on the tender root systems of lawns. Affected lawns exhibit browning and wilting patches.

To be certain that the culprits are grubs, Hentschel suggests that homeowners pull back the sod and look for white, C-shaped grubs. If they're present at a rate exceeding 10 per square foot, they should be treated with a chemical pesticide.

Milky spore is an environmentally friendly way to control some species of grubs. When using insecticides, read and follow all label directions and water the product into the soil immediately. Cost is around $50 to $75 per application.

PATCHING

Grass type: Cool-season
Maintenance schedule: Early fall

Grass type: Warm-season
Maintenance schedule: Early summer

The best time to patch bare or thin spots in a lawn is at the start of the grass's most favorable growing period. For cool-season grasses that means waiting until the hot, dry days of summer have given way to cooler fall temps.

Warm-season grasses thrive in summer, so it's best to sow seeds at the start of that season. Hentschel says to buy only high quality disease-resistant seed with good germination rates, which by law have to be listed on the label. Cost is anywhere from $20 to $75, depending on the size of the areas to be patched.

CLEANUP

Grass type: All
Maintenance schedule: Spring to fall

Although small particles of grass are fine to leave on the lawn, large piles that exit a side-discharge mower should be removed. Fallen leaves, twigs, and debris should be raked up regularly. In climates where it snows, it's best to remove fall leaves before winter. A thick layer of wet leaves can smother a lawn if not immediately removed in early spring.

Download our free PDF worksheet for an easy-to-use seasonal maintenance task chart.

Douglas Trattner has covered home maintenance and improvement topics for HGTV.com, DIYNetworks, and the Cleveland Plain Dealer. During the 10-year stewardship of his 1925 Colonial, he's upgraded the furnace, added insulation, replaced most appliances, and mowed his lawn every time but once.

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Douglas Trattner

Published: February 04, 2010

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.

7 Gardening Mistakes to Avoid

Article From Houselogic.com

By: Oliver Marks

Published: March 15, 2010

Novice gardeners can get their landscapes off to a healthy start by heeding some tried-and-true tips from the pros.

Gardening is just about the simplest do-it-yourself home improvement work there is. If you can dig a hole, turn on a spigot, and snip a dead flower off a vine, you've got the basic skills down. Still, you do have to make some judgment calls, so it helps to know the ground rules, so to speak, that can help you avoid making some rookie mistakes.

MISTAKE #1: MAKING CHANGES TOO SOON

Take the excitement of buying a home, add a nice stretch of spring weather, and you get a lot of enthusiasm for doing yard work. That's great; seize the day, but don't jump into wholesale landscape changes, like pulling out plants or reorganizing the layout quite yet.

"That weed that you want to yank out in the spring might turn out to be a gorgeous fall-blooming vine," says Gary Blondell, owner of Gary's Gardens, a nursery in Severna Park, Md. Plus, it takes time to learn the landscape and figure out exactly what changes make sense.

Avoid this by: Living with the landscape for a full year, so you can observe it in all seasons.

MISTAKE #2: PLANTING TOO CLOSE TOGETHER

You buy a wheelbarrow full of young shrubs and perennials and plant them in a pleasing arrangement. But if they look properly spaced now, they're actually way too close together.

Unless you're creating an evergreen hedge, when the idea is packing things tightly together, the immature plantings will grow into each other in a few years and struggle to compete for sun, water, and soil nutrients. You'll either have to dig them up and transplant them-or possibly throw them away.

Avoid this by: Following the spacing requirements on the plant label-even though the results will look absurdly sparse at first.

MISTAKE #3: PLANTING WITHOUT A PLAN

Putting in new garden beds without a long-term landscape plan is like tiling, painting, and wallpapering your house before you figure out your future remodeling plans: There's a good chance you'll have to undo your efforts in the near future.

Avoid this by: Drawing a simple, bird's eye view sketch of your yard, and figuring out the rough location of any future construction-additions, patios, outbuildings, pools-so you can plant around them.

A good local nursery or home improvement store can help you with your design. Or you can hire a landscape designer to create a starter plan for as little as $250 to $500. Find a professional at the Association of Professional Landscape Designers or the American Society of Landscape Architects.

MISTAKE #4: NEGLECTING THE ROOT BALL

Even the hardiest plants need a little help getting their roots established in their new locations. But just turning on the sprinkler every day to douse the foliage isn't enough to ensure that they get the nutrients and hydration they need. You have to get the water to a plant's nerve center--the root ball below ground--or it's going to be stunted or short-lived.

Avoid this by: Placing the hose near the root ball and setting the water to a trickle for about 20 to 30 minutes. Do this twice a week-more during hot, dry spells-for the first four to 12 weeks. Choosing the right irrigation system can help with this task while saving water.

MISTAKE #5: IGNORING YOUR YARD'S SUN CONDITIONS

Too many nursery shoppers pick plants based only on looks-not the growing conditions they need, which are almost always indicated on a label wrapped around the trunk or a marker pressed into the soil. "They put a sun-loving perennial under a dense tree or something that wants partial shade out in full-day sunshine," says Blondell. "It looks great for about a week, and then it begins to die."

Avoid this by: Watching the spot where you're going to put the plant and estimating the amount of sun it gets over the course of the day during the growing season. To translate that to the language on plant labels, use this key:

Full Sun 6 hours a day or more Part Sun/Part Shade 3 to 5 hours Shade Less than 3 hours

MISTAKE #6: MISUSING IRRIGATION SYSTEMS

An automatic irrigation system is a luxury that allows you to keep your landscape hydrated throughout the growing season with almost no effort. Unfortunately, with the wrong settings, it can also bring disease, root rot, and an untimely death to the plants in your landscape.

"People tend to set their systems to come on for 15 or 20 minutes each morning," says Blondell. "That provides a nice saturation of the surface, but not a deep penetrating soak to reach the roots of large shrubs and trees." And a deeper soak is better for the lawn, too, because it promotes deep root systems.

Avoid this by: Watering for longer intervals-say, 40 to 60 minutes-only two to three times a week. Check with the company that maintains your irrigation system for local recommendations.

MISTAKE #7: NOT BUDGETING FOR LANDSCAPING DURING CONSTRUCTION PROJECTS

Whether you're building a house or an addition, the bulldozers that excavate the job and the pickups that park on the lawn will damage the grass, trees, and shrubs. And the new building configuration will call for new landscape plantings.

Unfortunately, homeowners don't often include money in their budgets for this work. So you wind up with a beautiful new family room, screened porch, or solarium, with a few azaleas thrown in around the foundation as an afterthought.

Avoid this by: Allocating 10 to 20 percent of your construction budget to the landscape-both hardscaping and plants-or at least making plans to spend that money as soon as possible after the construction job is complete.

A former carpenter and newspaper reporter, Oliver Marks has been writing about home improvements for 16 years. He's entering his second summer at his house and has big plans for upgrading its scraggly foundation plantings.

Visit Houselogic.com for more articles like this. Reprinted from HouseLogic.com with permission of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS (R).

Copyright 2010. All rights reserved.